The Hotel Victoria in Tantoyuca is situated on a very steep hill near the plaza. I had to push my bike up the small, heavily congested, one-way, street to reach the plaza. When I left the hotel the next morning, I rode back to the plaza and expected to find another one-way street running parallel down the hill and back to the highway, but there was none. So, I rode around a little looking for a street down the hill. I found one that went in the general direction that I needed to go and began the descent. There were no cars on this street (there’s a clue Mark). It was a cool morning with a misty rain, everything was wet. There were lots of people lining the street selling stuff and I noticed they were staring at me (more than normal). I`m going real slow and riding the brakes when the front wheel starts to skid, I realize that I am going to have to get off and walk the bike down the hill. I get off and nearly fall; the pavement is extremely slick and the street is getting steeper. So I slow to a crawl, I got both wheels locked keeping the bike in a controlled slide as I take three inch baby steps down the street. I am realizing choosing this street was a mistake, or perhaps all the streets are like this and some days you just can`t leave Tantoyuca on a bike. I am pretty sure I am going to fall, and the people watching me are sure of it too and are just waiting to see it. In my minds eye, I see me and the bike sliding down the hill into some vendors stand and demolishing it. Boy, would that be a mess for the gringo. I inch around the last curve and my heart sinks, the street empties into the MERCADO! and it`s the SUNDAY mercado, that’s why there are so many people on the streets. The street disappears into acres of suspended tarps. Wow, what do I do now, there no going back up the hill, I barely came down it. I guess I either go through the mercado with my bike or camp here at the bottom of the hill till something changes. So into the mercado I go with my fully loaded bike and trailer. It’s times like this that I am glad I am not flying the Stars and Stripes on my trailer antenna advertising where I am from. The market is a zoo; animals, fruits, vegetables, you name it, and you can buy it here. Most of the people look indigenous. I move slowly, hoping I don’t damage something or scratch someone. The path is narrow, just enough room for two people to pass. Everyone is bearing with me well, nobody looks angry with me. About 100 meters in, I stop and ask for directions, the guy points to my left. Eventually I see the road! I am so happy. I push the bike down the road, there are still a lot of people about. The road makes a right turn, and there is the highway! However the last 15 meters is steep, it kind of looks like my driveway. I can`t push the bike up the hill, it is too slippery. I take a running start at the hill, that doesn`t work either. Maybe I can unload all my stuff and carry it up one thing at a time…….hmmm, maybe I should see if I can walk up it empty handed first, what do they make these streets of anyhow? About this time, this kid who was standing by watching everything says, “Señor, ¿adonde va?”. I replied I need the highway to Tuxpan. He points at a path by the river. I could have kissed him. A minute later I am riding down the highway. I got a good story to tell so I stop for coffee and share it with three amigos. They get a kick out of me pantomiming sliding down the hill and pushing the bike through the market. As I saddle up to leave, I ask them if they have ever been to the United States. The one guy, the biggest joker of the three, pantomimes kicking someone in the butt, and says ”they kick the Mexicans out”. We all laugh uproariously. I invite them to come to my house anytime.


