Archive for September, 2008

More than you want to know..

Posted in guatemala with tags on September 14, 2008 by markschaumann

I knew something was wrong as soon as I sat on the bicycle. It was still rideable after the accident; I know this because I recall Marvin riding it after we collected it from the cops (one of the few things I remember about the days after the accident).  But something is definitely amiss here. I got off the bike and started looking at things…..the frame is bent!!!  So is the seat post, how do you bend a seat post? Maybe I was struck by a car, nobody saw the accident, the policia simply assumed there were no cars involved because the bike still rolled OK. 

 I wanted to know more about what took place out of curiosity, but it wasn’t real important to know everything about that occurred because the REALLY important thing is that God saw fit to spare me (yet again) and I am here to live another day.  Anyhow, I asked some of the people who were involved in helping me for more details. Marvin said the story he got from the police was I was on a busy road (to Canton?) in the afternoon, just outside of Xela, and I hit a speedbump and rode off the side of a bridge. The cops arrived and called for an ambulance but the ambulance never showed, so the cops drug me up the embankment and put me in the back of the cop car. On the way to the La Democracia Hospital Publico I went into seizures. They dropped me off at the hospital then paid a visit to Colin at Vrisa English Bookstore.  Colin rents bicycles in addition to selling books. A while back, a gringo got nailed on a bike he had rented there (that guy spent 3 weeks in the hospital) and the cops thought maybe my bike came from there. Colin informed them that it wasn’t one of his bikes, but said he would go to the hospital and have a look at the gringo tomorrow; and I do vaguely remember a stranger visiting me at the hospital and telling me something emphatically over and over but not grasping what he was saying. I’m glad I had the opportunity to meet Colin the other day, he is an interesting fellow, we talked for quite a while. He said when he arrived at the hospital Dona Gloria, Mayra, Mario and others were already there so I was in good hands. Dona Gloria said she spoon fed me jello she brought to the hospital, that’s just like her to think I needed something to eat.  Marvin offered to drive me to the spot where it happened, but when we met the following day to go, his car would not start, someone had swiped the battery.

 On the airplane to Houston I told the guy sitting next to me about my accident. He said he hit a bicyclist once near Xela. The guy was hurt pretty bad, but his main concern was that his bike was smashed and he needed it for work.  He said “have no worries, I will buy you THREE bikes!”.  He said he was glad that he stopped; his conscience would have bothered him if he had not. I will never know for sure if I was hit or forced off the road by a car; I am uncoordinated enough to inflict grave injury upon myself without any help. But maybe someone did hit me….and kept on driving. I wonder if he remembers me flying thru the air and then lying still on the embankment. He probably thinks he killed me. Maybe he will have nightmares for the rest of his life. It’s always best to stop, rather than risk nocturnal visits from the ghost of the dead gringo cada noche…..especially when the gringo ain’t dead, but is sitting here feeling all right today.

why the line??

Posted in guatemala with tags on September 11, 2008 by markschaumann

There is always a long, long, line of people in front of the federal bank on the Xela Parque Centro every day. The line is composed mostly of men wearing straw cowboy hats. Only one at a time is allowed to enter the building and each one is patted down for weapons  before entering. None of the other banks have a line like this.
 Everytime I walk past I wonder “what are they doing?” I decided to ask someone and this is the story I got. During the long civil war in Guatemala, the government forced it’s citizens to roam the countryside and engage the guerrillas. They received no pay, just go do it or else. In the 2000 presidential election one of the candidates promised retroactive pay for these former paramilitaries. He was elected and then decided it was not possible to pay them (politicians are the same all around the world). But the paramilitaries were still well armed and began to make noise and break things. The government acquiesced, and  began cutting and distributing checks. The line at the bank is former paramilitaries picking up their checks.

With this knowledge, I walk past the crowd with a new cognizance. When I look at their eyes, some are friendly, some are hardened, some of them look at me like they are evaluating me. I wonder what their eyes have seen, what their hands have done.  Perhaps when I get a better command of the language I will iniciate a conversation with one of them. To hear of their experiences might make me appreciate sheltered life in the “land of plenty” more. Guatemala is place of far different culture and history.

The Arrival

Posted in guatemala with tags on September 6, 2008 by markschaumann

In light of several circumstances, it was a good time to go to Guatemala and see my friends. So here I am.  My arrival was a surprise. I rapped on the familiar steel  door with a quetzal four times then Paola opened the door and exclaimed “Marcos!” and she went running to announce the news. Pablo came running and shouting and gave me a big, genuine hug. Next was 4 year old Mimi with her arms in the air saying “hola,hola,hola”. Evelyn was all smiles, and Dona Gloria positively beamed. They gave me a chair and we all spoke at once. The first thing they wanted to know was how long I could stay and they scoffed at the news that I had a room at Los Olivios. “You must come here and stay in the downstairs room”. I promised that is sure thing. It feels really good to be here