Archive for March, 2008

it is hard to leave…

Posted in chiapas, mexico with tags , , on March 31, 2008 by markschaumann

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The “camionetta” is the mode of transportation and prized possession  of the campesino. In Chiapas state they are mostly little red pickups with the bed enclosed with corrugated stainless steel sheet on the sides. They are always clean and in good repair reflecting a pride in ownership.  The roof is open so everyone standing in the back can look over the sides or cab and view the scenery as they barrel down the mountainous roads. If it is raining they tie a tarp over the top so everyone stays dry.  Across the top of the cab is lettered a message such as:
God is love
Jesus saves
Jesus is the way
Gift of God
Only God knows my destiny
All we want is God
Thanks to God
Guide me Lord
Lion of Judah
There are many more that I don’t remember or can’t translate readily. Emblazoning a reference to God across the front of their prized possessions indicates to me, that God has a prime position in their lives.

As I study this society, I notice that in some regards it is like what America used to be. I am not saying everything is good about that, but I can’t help take notice how children are more obedient and respectful. The family unit is closer. The reverence towards God. Little evidence of drugs. The lack of crime (and this means when they immigrate to the USA the crime rate goes down where they settle). Abortion is illegal. Everyone values their job and tries to excel at it.  Authority is respected.

My Spanish instructor at the Latin Community Center also instructs the police department in the Spanish language and some cultural sensitivity issues they need to now about. She said when a Hispanic individual is pulled over in a car, he will not look  the officer in the eye. He will look ahead or down as a sign of respect. (I have no doubt that many cops have taken this as a insult requiring a call for backup and some flashlight therapy). I see similarities here when I encounter people younger than me; often I will hear someone say “de donde viene?” but I am unsure who said it and weather they were talking to me, because nobody is looking at me.

To some extent, I am seeing Mexico through rose colored glasses.  Not being fluent in the language I miss a lot of what is going on around me and I am just not too observant. To understand the culture, one needs to be involved in peoples lives, and all my relationships so far have been superficial. I see all the big smiles, but I don’t look far beyond them; but I am beginning to slow down and study things better. My lingual ability, (or LACK of lingual ability) is the big obstacle in getting to know people better.

 With all that being said, it’s still very impressive that I have had zero bad experiences in the months that I have been here. Sooner or later SOMETHING has got to happen that will tarnish the sparkle; however, it doesn’t look like its going to happen this trip, shortly I will be closing the door on Mexico and entering GUATEMALA! I hope its a lot like Mexico.

San Cristobal de las Casas

Posted in chiapas, mexico with tags , , , on March 24, 2008 by markschaumann

Chiapas comedor

San Cristobal de las Casas has its hooks in me. “Desire” moves me from one town to the next, and “desire” has been absent since I arrived here. The climate at 2200 meters is a pleasant change after the heat of the Yucatan. The people are most friendly with a large indigenous population. While there are a lot of tourists here, if I ride my bike several kilometers out of town and stop at a roadside comedor for a Coca-Cola, I am once again an oddity that must be investigated. I enjoy these encounters immensely. I approach them with a big smile and gregarious attitude. First, there is initial shock that there is a gringo is at the door shouting “buenas dias” and wanting a soda, after they recover from that, they fetch me a drink and watch from a distance. I make myself comfortable at the plastic table and chairs that are always in front of each comedor and act like I got all the time in the world. Often times the first one to get up the courage to check the gringo out is a child. If its a boy he will always start by looking at (but not touching) the bicycle. If it’s girls they will say the one English word they know, maybe “hello” then run away giggling. I have had some interesting conversations with Mestizo women at comedors, they are often very curious about me. the indigenous women less so, they tend to remain aloof and watch from a distance (but not always). Spanish is a second language for many of the indigenous. The lengthiest conversations I have had have been with other men who are on break from work and stop and share the table with me. Usually they come in groups and there is often one who has worked in the States and knows a little English and is eager to use it. I have never had a bad experience at these roadside rests. I can’t ever remember someone giving a mean look or treating me like I wasn’t welcome there . It’s always a rich cultural experience that both sides enjoy and often culminates with the realization that we are not much different. Same problems, same joys, same aspirations.  

Good Friday

Posted in chiapas, mexico with tags , , on March 21, 2008 by markschaumann

christ carry cross

He died so that I will live

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and he gave his life as a ransom for many others.

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But the story didn´t end here, hang on, Sunday is coming…..

a visit with the doctor…..

Posted in chiapas, healthcare, mexico with tags , on March 17, 2008 by markschaumann

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The doctors office door 

With the USA presidential campaigns in high gear the healthcare issue is at the forefront of political debate once again. The healthcare system in the USA is expensive and complicated. I had an encounter with the Mexican system this week and I will share the experience with you.

My eyes have been bothering me for the last year or two. At the end of the day they hurt. I blink a lot and can’t stay up late watching the television. The problem has got much worse over the last two months. I’ve been riding south into the  sun and its has took a toll on my eyes. They are completely bloodshot, I look like a dope addict. (lil’ sidenote, speaking of drug  addicts, I saw a GOOD movie this week called “Things We Lost in the Fire”  Benecio del Toro is a superb actor, and Halle Berry, well she is ***Halle Berry***, ‘xcuse the interruption, but I just had to tell someone about it) Back on point-

 I can’t sleep at night, it feels like I have sand in my eyes.  I decided it was time to see the doctor. There are three options for medical care that I know of: go to a public health clinic, go to the Red Cross, or see a private doctor. To visit a private doctor is the most costly, but still should be cheap. I asked the folks that run the Posada where I am staying where they thought I should go. They recommended an eye doctor that was close and they called and made an appointment for me. I set off  for the doctor early in case I had trouble finding him. I found the intersection where the office should be without  problem, but there was nothing there. I asked a guy who was walking by if he knew where the eye doctor was. He pointed at a red door in the stone wall running along the road. The door had no markings or signs. I pulled the cord that was hanging on the right side and it rang a bell. A couple of minutes passed and a little window in the door opened and a child asked what I wanted. I replied I had an appointment with the eye doctor. She smiled and said, “you want the señorita” and closed the window. Hmmm…. So the doctor is a señorita, I begin to wonder what she looks like. Five minutes go by and the niña doesn’t return, but an old guy shows up with a key to the door and he lets me in. Behind the wall, on a very large lot, is what looks to be a stone house with a tile roof  but it is too big to be a house. He points to the sliding glass door where I should enter. I enter and have a seat in a chair and take in the surroundings. It is dead quiet. The stone wall isolates the street noise and there is no noise coming from within, not even the hum of a refrigerator. The floor is polished brick, the walls are cedar tongue and groove with a painted ceramic tile cove base. There is no ceiling, leaving the underside of the roof exposed. Large rough hewn beams support the roof. There is an open courtyard in the center of the building.

 The doctor is late, but that’s OK, I need some time to think about how I am going to answer the questions she will have for me. I get my electronic dictionary out and figure out how to describe the problem. I hear the doctor entering the building, then she appears in the hallway. She starts with the questions as soon as she sees me. She speaks fast. This is going to be difficult. I take my glasses off and show her my eyes. I see sympathy and understanding in her eyes. We go to an exam room and she give me the E chart exam (you know, the one where you point which way the E is facing), I score perfect with my glasses on. Then we go to a different exam room, where she turns out all the lights and peers in my eyes with a tiny light. Then we go to a third exam room where she looks in my eyes with a microscope of sorts. Then we go to her office. On her desk is a mechanical typewriter, not a computer, not a electric typewriter, but a mechanical typewriter, I haven’t seen one of them in a while. She draws a diagram of my eye with a pencil and puts a lot of dots in the white area and explains that I have lesions on my eyes. She says a lot of things but most of it is going over my head. We get to the treatment phase and I need to understand this perfectly. She realizes this and slows down a bit. She writes the name of the two drugs I need on a pad and goes over how to administer them, it’s kind of complicated, so she goes over it a few times and then has me repeat it back to her to show that I comprehend the instructions. And that’s it. Total cost 200 pesos ($18USD). She compliments me on how well I speak Spanish (ha ha) and sends me on my way. The drugs cost me 90 pesos at the pharmacy; I’ve been on them for three days and I definitely feel better, I am sleeping better than I have in a long time.

So, how does that compare with the healthcare system that you are dealing with?

I’m thinkin’ maybe I ought to visit the dentist while I’m here….
   

me and gerald and the minibike

Posted in true motorcycle stories on March 11, 2008 by markschaumann

mini trail 1971

Honda Mini-Trail 1971 model

Remember the  Honda mini trail? They were 50cc minibikes, with a 3 speed transmission, automatic clutch and a top speed of 30mph. Every kid wanted one, and the lucky kid who had one, was either everyone’s buddy because he let his friends ride it, or he was despised because he wouldn’t let anyone ride it, offering the standard “my dad said not to let anyone ride it” excuse. I am sure the story was the same in neighborhoods all across America.

Gerald gave his wife a beat up mini-trail for her birthday. I can’t remember ever seeing her ride it. It was primarily used by me and Gerald for lunchtime amusement  and getting around the pits at the racetrack. One day we were riding the minibike on the trails behind the shop and found an abandoned go-kart track. It was an incredible find, a perfectly good asphalt track abandoned and almost overgrown with reeds (just like the reeds Gerald threw Pearson’s finger into). We returned with a machete and  hacked the weeds back exposing a eight foot wide track with multiple turns. The obvious thing to do was see who could ride the mini-trail around the track the fastest. So, we took turns making laps around the track. Gerald was way faster than me, in no time there was a black rubber groove in the turns. An unusual wear pattern was developing on the tires, tread down the center, and bald on the sides. He kept on getting faster and then the inevitable happened. He was midway through the right hand hairpin turn when the rear wheel traction broke suddenly and completely. He and the bike both went flying through the air; he still had one hand on the throttle, and he was laughing. He picked himself up, gave the bike a cursory inspection, booted it to life, and did some more laps. Gerald had talent and nerve. I was impressed.


There also was a trail loop we used to take turns riding. It was fairly long, you couldn’t see the whole thing, but you could hear the minibike the whole way around it. After some practice, we were both able to complete the circuit in top gear with the throttle wide open except for one turn where someone had laid a mattress in the path. It was necessary to blip the throttle off for a second to round it.
We were out there one day doing laps on the trail loop and Gerald hands the bike off to me and says, “ya know, I think if I lifted the front wheel right before I hit the mattress, I could ride right over it.” I replied, “I’ll give it a try” and I sped off. The “mattress-in-the-turn” turn was in an area of the loop that could not be seen from the start/finish line where Gerald was waiting for me. As I bore down on the mattress it suddenly seemed like a not too good idea to lift the front wheel and ride over it. I had learned from spending the majority of my free time riding motorcycles in the woods, that ideas like this don’t always pan out like they are envisioned. There was the time when I was going to wheelie through that mud hole in 3rd gear on my Honda SL100. In my minds eye, I pictured my rear wheel making a wake of mud, splattering it on either side of me without getting any on me or the bike as I powered through it. Didn’t happen. The bike sunk to its axles and STOPPED as soon as I hit the mud. The laws of physics demanded that I go flying over the handlebars and land face first in the mud. The bike didn’t even fall over, the mud held it fast and upright. So, I chickened out and went around the mattress, it wasn’t a crime, in hindsight, it was a smart decision. But what I did next was a crime, I handed Gerald the bike and he said “didja do it?”, I replied, “yeah, lifted the front wheel and went right over it”. To this day I remember the look on his face as he sat on the bike and dropped it into gear. As he disappeared around the turn the realization of what I had just done began to dawn on me. Why did I do that to my friend? Well I have spent some time thinking about this. You might remember from the previous tale (see me and gerald and pearson and glen: a cautionary tale) that I was the “skinny longhaired kid who didn’t want to disappoint anyone”. As silly as it might seem, I answered a lot of questions, particularly if they started with “did you…?”, in the affirmative for fear of disappointing someone. I was a lot like that guy I asked today, “am I close to the turn off for Dzibilchaltun?” he replied “muy cerca” just what I wanted to hear, not accurate, but then, he didn’t want to disappoint me. I have since matured and realize the importance of accurate, truthful answers; and the wreck Gerald was about to have was a milestone in that maturing process. I stood there thinking those hopeful thoughts one has right before something bad happens, “Maybe he will wheelie right over the mattress and everything will be alright; if any one can do it Gerald can“. No such luck. The sound of the minibike stopped abruptly, then I caught a glimpse of it flying end over end through the lower branches of the trees. I ran down the path and found him sprawled out gasping for breath. It was obvious what happened when I saw the mattress. Instead of rolling over it, it kind of wadded up creating an obstacle too big to roll over.  Slowly he got his breath back and he sat up. His white T-shirt was ripped and dirty. It was a fortunate thing he didn’t break his neck. I picked up the minibike and kicked it back to life, then we rode back to the shop. Gerald  raced that weekend, but he wasn’t up to par and didn’t finish well. He never said a word to me about the mattress.

Merida

Posted in mexico, yucatan with tags , , on March 7, 2008 by markschaumann

Every town has one. The Zocalo is where it all happens. Sometimes its called El Centro, or Plaza de Armas, but its all the same thing. The square in the center of town where everyone comes together. When I enter a town I always find the Zocalo first, then start my search for a hotel. I want to be as close as possible to the center of activity. There is something romantic about a plaza that has seen couples dancing on it for decades, even centuries. Presently I am in Merida, which has a huge Zocalo named “Plaza Grande” with near constant organized activities, usually music and dancing, on top of all the ordinary action. The Latinos elevate music and dancing to level of importance on par with food and water. One of my favorite blogs is by a gringo who lives in a small town in Mexico. He lamented in one post that when the town’s water pump broke and it took eight months for the town to round up the money to fix it; but they had several concerts in the meantime. Money for music, no money for water. It´s all about priorities…..

pablo montero

Pablo Montero on the Merida Zocalo, the crowd went nuts!

San Francisco de Campeche

Posted in campeche, hostel, mexico with tags , on March 3, 2008 by markschaumann

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San Francisco de Campeche was worth staying for some extra days. Campeche is a World Heritage Site and is one of  two remaining cities in the western hemisphere with fortified walls.  It is small enough that you can walk anywhere, yet big enough to have all the conveniences. Situated right on the gulf of Mexico, it has an excellent Malecon with bikepath, a great place to meet people or watch the sun set into the ocean. I stayed at the Monkey Hostel located on the plaza. The staff was laid back and friendly and there were few guests, just a few Europeans to while away the evening hours with.

On my last night there they had a convention of the governors of Mexico on the zocalo. It felt like we were presiding over the affair from the balcony of the hostel. The police sealed off nine blocks to traffic and sealed off the zocalo to anyone who was not invited. The governors arrived one by one in white Chevy Suburbans. When they stepped out of the car they were surrounded by the press with lots of lights, microphones, and cameras. Eventually, they all assembled on the plaza at little tables and had dinner and watched some fine folk dancing. It was a regal affair. Later, I awoke to the sound of fireworks, too bad I missed the show, but cyclists have to get to bed early.

As I was preparing to leave the following morning, an old guy from Calgary who was  staying at the hostel  [never did get his name] started a conversation with me. He had rode his bicycle to Uruguay (from Calgary), it took him a year to get there and now he was riding buses home because he could “see the bottom of my wallet”. His was a low cost trip, no hotels, sleeping in fields each night, but he said he enjoyed that a lot better than riding the bus with the tourists. He looked over the instrumentation (cyclocomputer, GPS) on my bike and made the comment “I didn’t even have an odometer on my bike”. I showed him my cyclocomputer even told me my heartrate. He said “well I definitely would NOT want to know that” <g>.  He offered me advice on the best route to take through Central America. He had basically took the flattest route. I am not sure which route I will take; it is not unusual for me to make up  my mind at the last minute.

me and gerald and pearson and glen, a cautionary tale….

Posted in true motorcycle stories on March 1, 2008 by markschaumann

As I pedal along I spend a lot of time remembering the past. A Steely Dan song came up on my ipod playlist today and instantly it was ‘72 again. What a great year. Oh to be young again.   I thought about what I was doing back then, and dredged up this tale…..

When I was 14, I worked at a small motorcycle dealership in North Carolina. The job paid $1.50 per hour, but I would have worked there for free. I assembled the new motorcycles, test drove them, and did some repairs.  The new motorcycles had to be picked up in Jacksonville. They arrived in crates. 
On this particular hot August day, Pearson (Mr. Stanley to me), the owner of the dealership arrived at the back roll-up door with a fresh load of new Honda motorcycles. The bed of the pick up truck had two crates in it and there were three crates on the trailer behind the truck. Now, normally the way we unloaded the truck was to run a strap around the crates and lift them with a hydraulic lift; however on this cursed day, Pearson had something different in mind. “There are four of us here; let’s just lift them by hand, it will be quicker” he says. 
Pearson was a retired Marine, he had done his twenty years and could have whiled away the rest of his years playing golf or doing any of the innumerable things people do to occupy themselves. For some reason, he decided to have a try a running a small business; he wasn’t a motorcycle fanatic, I think he could have just as likely opened a boat or car dealership.  He was a fair guy, and displayed all the characteristics you would expect from a Marine.
Glen was Pearson’s son and one of the four who were present on the cursed crate day. He was in college taking small business courses and worked at the shop in Sales and Parts. He was not a motorcycle fanatic either, but he was in the habit of pushing a new bike off the showroom floor, putting a dealer tag on it, riding it for a week or two, and then picking a different one out to test drive. Man, I envied him being able to do that.  Glen argued with his father a lot, but it was excusable, it was the early 70’s and many college students were arguing with their fathers.  
Gerald was my hero. He was the longhaired mechanic, and he WAS a motorcycle fanatic. He raced AMA flattrack at the Pro Novice level (today it would be known as Pro Sport). He had raced in the Houston Astrodome and Madison Square Garden in NYC. Every weekend he and his wife, Estelle, would pack their dilapidated van up and drive to a distant venue to compete. The local Yamaha shop sponsored him by giving him a beautiful yellow, Trackmaster framed, Yamaha 750 to race. He also owned a Champion framed Triumph 750 that served as a back up bike. He could ride a motorcycle around a dirt oval very fast. It was his mistake that made crate day particularly horrible.
Then there was me, a skinny, long haired kid, with a lot of desire and not wanting to disappoint anyone.
So, after Pearson’s suggestion (as he was the boss, it was more of a command) we hesitated a moment then approached the first crate on the trailer. The three of us were thinking this was not a good idea but nobody protested.  The crate was labeled “1973 Honda CB350 purple (ugly color). Pearson and I were shoulder to shoulder at one end while Gerald and Glen were at the other. We lifted it about an inch and I faltered and dropped it. Pearson quickly pulled his hand out from under the crate and covered it with a rag. Then he said to Glen “drive me to the hospital” and off they went without saying another word.  Gerald and I didn’t know what to think; he said something like “must have cut his hand bad to have to go to the hospital”.  I felt a little responsible, however any blame I was to receive was quickly overshadowed in light of the monumental mistake Gerald was about to make. We talked a bit, joked about what had happened, and then decided we would unload the trailer with the hydraulic lift. We lifted the crate and wheeled it away from the trailer and lying there on the bed of the trailer was a good bit of Pearson’s finger. The absurdity of the finger lying there, detached from a living, breathing, body, struck me right between the eyes and put me in a daze. I had not grown up on a farm where one might be more likely to witness things like this; I had led a sheltered upbringing in suburbia and had never seen nothing like this.  My peripheral vision began to darken till I was looking through a tunnel and I felt unsteady on my feet.  Gerald walked to his tool box and selected a pair of needle nose pliers and picked the finger up with them, and held it up in front of his face and looked it over good with a solemn expression on his face. I felt sick. Then Gerald did the most incredible thing; he walked through the open roll up door, took a few steps and flung the finger over the chain link fence into some neck high reeds.

You know what happened next.


Glen arrives back from the hospital and says “where is the finger, they are going to try and reattach it”. I can’t describe the expression on Gerald’s face, but I will never forget it. He doesn’t say anything to Glen, and turns to me and says “c’mon Mark”. So, we are out in the reeds looking for the finger. To be honest, I’m not looking too hard; I don’t want to see the thing again. Some kids ride up on bicycles and ask us what we are looking for. We tell them we are looking for a finger and would they help? They don’t believe us and ride off. After a while, we give up, Pearson just going to have to live with a shorter finger, one less nail to trim I guess. Gerald starts talking about getting a job elsewhere; he thinks Pearson is going to hold a grudge. I don’t look forward to seeing Pearson either.
The next day, Pearson and Glen pick me up for work. I ask Pearson if his finger is O.K. he says “it’s O.K., just a little shorter. We arrive at the shop and Gerald starts apologizing profusely. Pearson says it was his own fault for coming up with a dumb idea like lifting the crates by hand.
So, in the end, it all worked out and we were all wiser for the experience.  In the following year Gerald moved to California to work at a dealership there and race at the famed Ascot Speedway.  My family and I moved back to Newark, Delaware and I got a job at a Honda/Kawasaki dealership.
In ’93, twenty years after crate day, I was touring the Southeast on my motorcycle and decided to see if Pearson and Glen were still around. The dealership had moved into a larger building further down the road. I walked in and there they were! A lot of emotion and memories flowed through me, I was kind of tongue tied.  When I told them who I was (they did not recognize me) they were overjoyed to see me. We talked for a while and I got all filled in on what had happened to all the other guys who had worked there. At one point, I stole a glance at Pearson’s hand and he caught me, our eyes met and went back to that day. Then we quickly moved to another topic. 

 


I saw them one more time since then. In 1999 Hurricane Floyd hit Wilmington North Carolina hard.  Pearson and Glen were being interviewed on the national news while standing in knee deep water on their showroom floor.  They were uncertain if they would reopen.